:root{--ink:#181817;--paper:#f5f0e7;--ivory:#fffaf1;--gold:#c9a25e;--bronze:#8d6a3b;--muted:#6b655d;--line:#d7cec0;--red:#7c2727;--max:1180px}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:Inter,ui-sans-serif,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,"Segoe UI",sans-serif;font-size:16px;line-height:1.65}h1,h2,h3{font-family:Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;line-height:1.08;font-weight:500;margin:0 0 .65em}h1{font-size:clamp(2.7rem,7vw,6.8rem);letter-spacing:-.045em}h2{font-size:clamp(1.8rem,3.5vw,3.2rem);letter-spacing:-.025em}h3{font-size:1.55rem}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:4px}.skip{position:absolute;left:1rem;top:-5rem;background:#fff;padding:.8rem 1rem;z-index:99}.skip:focus{top:1rem}.site-header{max-width:var(--max);margin:auto;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:1.1rem 1.5rem;gap:2rem}.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.75rem;text-decoration:none;line-height:1.05}.brand span{display:grid;place-items:center;width:2.75rem;height:2.75rem;border:1px solid var(--gold);color:var(--bronze);font:700 .72rem/1 Inter;letter-spacing:.1em}.brand strong{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:.96rem}.site-header nav{display:flex;gap:1.2rem;align-items:center}.site-header nav a{font-size:.84rem;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid transparent}.site-header nav a:hover,.site-header nav a:focus-visible{border-color:var(--bronze)}.menu{display:none;background:none;border:1px solid var(--ink);padding:.65rem 1rem}.disclosure{background:var(--ink);color:#eee7dc;text-align:center;padding:.55rem 1rem;font-size:.8rem;letter-spacing:.03em}main{max-width:var(--max);margin:auto;padding:0 1.5rem 6rem}.hero{min-height:76vh;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr .8fr;gap:5rem;align-items:center;padding:5rem 0}.kicker,.eyebrow{font-size:.75rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.18em;color:var(--bronze);font-weight:800}.lede{font-size:clamp(1.12rem,2vw,1.45rem);max-width:760px;color:#4d4842}.actions{display:flex;gap:1.2rem;align-items:center;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:2rem}.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;text-decoration:none;border:1px solid var(--ink);padding:.9rem 1.25rem;font-weight:750;font-size:.9rem;cursor:pointer}.button.secondary{background:transparent;color:var(--ink)}.text-link{font-weight:750}.hero-art{height:560px;background:linear-gradient(155deg,#2c2925,#10100f 62%);color:var(--ivory);position:relative;padding:2rem;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;overflow:hidden}.hero-art:before{content:"";position:absolute;width:400px;height:400px;border:1px solid #d2ae6d66;border-radius:50%;right:-150px;top:80px;box-shadow:0 0 0 60px #d2ae6d12,0 0 0 120px #d2ae6d09}.hero-art span,.hero-art small{font-size:.7rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.2em;color:#d8c5a0}.hero-art strong{font:400 clamp(2.5rem,5vw,5rem)/.95 Georgia,serif;z-index:1}.section-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:2rem;margin:3rem 0 2rem}.section-head>p{max-width:420px}.card-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:1px;background:var(--line);border:1px solid var(--line)}.card{background:var(--ivory);padding:2rem;min-height:270px;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.card p{color:var(--muted)}.card a{margin-top:auto;font-weight:750}.feature{margin:6rem 0 0;background:#242321;color:#fff;padding:clamp(2rem,6vw,5rem);display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:5rem}.feature .kicker{color:#d8b979}.feature ol,.itinerary ol{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}.feature li,.itinerary li{display:grid;gap:.15rem;border-top:1px solid #ffffff2b;padding:1.2rem 0}.feature li span{color:#c9c3bb}.crumb{display:flex;gap:.7rem;font-size:.83rem;color:var(--muted);padding:2rem 0}.page-head{padding:3.5rem 0 4rem;max-width:920px}.page-head h1{font-size:clamp(3.2rem,7vw,6rem)}.checked{font-size:.83rem;color:var(--muted);border-left:3px solid var(--gold);padding-left:1rem}.filter-bar,.chip-row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.55rem;margin:0 0 2rem}.filter,.chip-row span{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:.6rem .85rem;background:transparent;font:inherit;font-size:.82rem}.filter{cursor:pointer}.filter.active{background:var(--ink);color:#fff;border-color:var(--ink)}[hidden]{display:none!important}.venue-list{border-top:1px solid var(--ink)}.venue{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.7fr 1.3fr .8fr;gap:2rem;padding:2rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);align-items:start}.venue h2{font-size:2rem}.venue>div>span,.hotel-grid article>span,.editorial-grid article>span{font-size:.73rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.14em;color:var(--bronze);font-weight:800}.external{font-size:.9rem}.tip,.status,.warning,.support,.contact-card{background:var(--ivory);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:2rem;margin:3rem 0}.tip h2,.status h2{font-size:1.7rem}.sources{margin-top:5rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:2rem}.sources h2{font-size:1.5rem}.sources p,.sources li{font-size:.88rem;color:var(--muted)}.split-list,.guide-grid,.policy-grid,.qa-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:2rem}.split-list>section,.guide-grid article,.policy-grid article,.qa-grid section{background:var(--ivory);padding:2rem;border-top:3px solid var(--gold)}.named{list-style:none;padding:0}.named li{display:grid;gap:.1rem;padding:1rem 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.named span{color:var(--muted)}.editorial-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr;gap:1px;background:var(--line)}.editorial-grid article{background:var(--ivory);padding:2rem}.editorial-grid .feature-card{grid-row:span 3}.hotel-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:1rem}.hotel-grid article{background:var(--ivory);padding:2.2rem}.category-columns{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:1px;background:var(--line)}.category-columns section{background:var(--ivory);padding:2.5rem}.sensitive{border-left:5px solid var(--red);padding-left:2rem}.warning{border-color:#c99a9a;background:#fff6f3}.support{background:#1d2924;color:#fff;border:0}.support a{color:inherit}.prose{max-width:820px}.prose h2{font-size:2rem;margin-top:2.2rem}.planner{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:3rem;background:var(--ivory);padding:clamp(1.5rem,4vw,3.5rem)}fieldset{border:0;padding:0;margin:0 0 2rem}legend{font:500 2rem Georgia,serif;margin-bottom:1rem}.check-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:.7rem}.check-grid label{position:relative}.check-grid input{position:absolute;opacity:0}.check-grid span{display:block;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:.85rem;cursor:pointer}.check-grid input:checked+span{background:var(--ink);color:#fff;border-color:var(--ink)}.itinerary{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:3rem}.fine{font-size:.82rem;color:var(--muted)}dl div{padding:1rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}dt{font-weight:750}dd{margin:.2rem 0;color:var(--red)}.checks li::marker{color:#2e7457}.manual li::marker{color:#a06f22}.not-found{text-align:center;padding:10vh 0 20vh}.not-found .actions{justify-content:center}footer{background:#151515;color:#e9e1d6;padding:4rem max(1.5rem,calc((100vw - var(--max))/2)) 2rem}.footer-top{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:5rem}.footer-top>div>p{max-width:430px;color:#bdb5aa}.brand.inverse span{color:#d6b878}.footer-links{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:2rem}.footer-links h2{font:700 .75rem Inter,sans-serif;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.15em;color:#d6b878}.footer-links a{display:block;text-decoration:none;padding:.18rem 0;color:#d2cbc2}.legal{border-top:1px solid #ffffff26;margin-top:3rem;padding-top:1.5rem;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:2rem;font-size:.77rem;color:#9f9991}.legal p:first-child{max-width:700px}:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #b67918;outline-offset:3px}@media(max-width:980px){.site-header{align-items:flex-start}.menu{display:block}.site-header nav{display:none;position:absolute;z-index:10;left:1rem;right:1rem;top:76px;background:var(--ivory);padding:1rem;box-shadow:0 12px 30px #0002;flex-direction:column;align-items:stretch}.site-header nav.open{display:flex}.hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:2rem}.hero-art{height:390px}.card-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.hotel-grid,.category-columns{grid-template-columns:1fr}.venue{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.venue>a{grid-column:1/-1}.footer-top{grid-template-columns:1fr}.editorial-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.editorial-grid .feature-card{grid-row:auto}}@media(max-width:650px){main{padding-inline:1rem}.site-header{padding-inline:1rem}.brand strong{font-size:.82rem}.hero{padding-top:3rem}.hero-art{height:320px}.card-grid,.feature,.split-list,.guide-grid,.policy-grid,.qa-grid,.planner{grid-template-columns:1fr}.card{min-height:220px}.section-head{display:block}.venue{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:.5rem}.venue>a{grid-column:auto}.itinerary{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:2rem 0 0}.check-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.footer-top{gap:3rem}.legal{display:block}.sensitive{padding-left:1rem}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{animation:none!important;transition:none!important}}